Woman's Hat (Isicholo)

Description

In many African cultures, hats represent an extension of traditional hairstyles and can signify cultural, social, and personal meanings. The form of the isicholo, or married woman’s hat, developed out of a 19th-century conical hairstyle that was worn as a sign of respect to one’s husband and his family, in addition to serving as a public symbol of married status. In the early 20th century, a removable hat like this one replaced the hairstyle. This hat, with its flaring disk-like shape, is constructed of human hair. The reddish hue—associated with beauty and femininity—is the result of the application of a red ocher and fat mixture colorant.

Provenance

David Roberts, Durban, South Africa, by 2002; sold to Douglas Dawson Gallery, Chicago, Ill., 2002; sold to Donald Young and Shirley Weese Young, Chicago, Ill., 2003; given to the Art Institute, 2015.

Woman's Hat (Isicholo)

Northern Nguni

20th century

Accession Number

229886

Medium

Human hair, twine, cloth, and pigment

Dimensions

106.7 × 52.1 × 21.6 cm (42 × 20 1/2 × 8 1/2 in.)

Classification

hat

Museum

The Art Institute of Chicago

Chicago, United States

Credit Line

Gift of Donald Young and Shirley Weese Young